Tips to Keep Pets Safe this 4th of July!

Keep pets safe

I will be staying home this 4th of July, as is my tradition. With 4 dogs and 3 cats, most who hate the bombardment of the holiday, it is just the best choice for my Tribe. I have a very senior, senile miniature Schnauzer who occasionally reacts to loud booms with a full fledged panic. The other pets also just relax more when we are here to comfort them. Even if you do choose to go see the fireworks, here are some tips to keep pets safe this holiday!

More pets go missing on the 4th of July than any other holiday. It is also a top holiday for injuries and upset stomachs associated with “garbage gut,” especially when dogs get into the picnic food.

Keep Pets Safe this 4th of July! Prepare in Advance of the Holiday!

The best thing you can do is make your preparations in advance. Here are a few things you can do in the days before the holiday to get ready:

  • Make sure all pets are wearing collars with ID tags and a current phone number.
  • Check and update your pet’s microchip information. Remember, a microchip is only as good as the information attached to it!
  • Contact your vet and get any needed prescription medications filled. If you use an over-the-counter medication, be sure you know the correct dose to use!
  • Buy any calming agents you plan to use. Adaptil and Feliway are pheromone products that can relax some pets. There are several brands of Calming Chews you could try. I plan to use Zylkene on my dogs this holiday.
  • For very reactive pets, you might want to try a Thundershirt.

Plan Your Holiday with Pet Safety in Mind

Even if you have reactive pets, you can still enjoy the holiday with a little planning.

  • Figure out what things you want to do, and then arrange things so that the pets are protected at the most dangerous times. If your neighborhood is usually calm during the day, for instance, you may be able to head out to a picnic in the afternoon and be home in time for the crazy stuff.
  • If you absolutely have to travel for the whole day, then it might be best to have your pets boarded or hire a pet sitter for the day to stay with them.
  • Unless you are attending a pet-related event (I have friends who specifically throw puppy picnics for dog lovers) plan to leave the pets at home!

Tips for the Big Day to Keep Pets Safe!

Don’t bring your dog with you for the day unless you plan on keeping a close eye on things. If you want to relax and party, you will enjoy things more if you don’t have to worry about what Fluffy is eating  under the table. Also, the holiday can be stressful for the most socially adjusted dog.

If you do bring your dog, be sure there is plenty of shade to keep them cool in the heat. Bring a water dish and keep it full. Make sure your dog is always leashed for safety. You never know when someone is going to light off some fireworks. I have seen dogs go through a fence in a panic at a party. It happens.

  • Adjust your pet’s schedule for the day. Get up earlier and plan on feeding dinner a couple hours before sunset.
  • Excersize your pets in the cool hours of the morning and again in the early afternoon, if it isn’t too hot.
  • Keep outdoor kitties indoors from the late afternoon on. Many cats disappear around the 4th, never to be seen again.
  • Give any prescription or over-the-counter medications 60-90 minutes before the loud events begin, and redose as directed. Once your pet is terrified, it is too late for sedatives to work.
  • If you are planning to be away at night, leave the pets in a comfortable room inside the house and play some music. We use heavy metal, as it covers the sounds of the fireworks, but use what your pets are use to hearing.
  • Do not leave your dogs outdoors alone! Even during the day! Anything can happen.
  • Take the dogs out for a last potty walk about an hour before sunset. Use a leash if your yard is not secure. Just in case.
  • If you have to take your dog out after dark, use a leash even in a secure yard.

Follow these tips to keep pets safe this 4th of July! Happy Holidays!

 

Kids Summertime Reading-10 Awesome Animal Books!

Kids Summertime Reading

My 10 top picks for kids summertime reading! If your child enjoys books about animals, wildlife or pets, then make sure they check these reads out!

Summertime is a great time to introduce your kids to some new books. Whether you prefer a children’s classic story or a new author, there are a lot of great books to choose from. I have picked a selection of new and old friends who have accompanied me on my reading journey. Please add your favorite animal and wildlife books in the comments!

10 Great Picks for Kids Summertime Reading!

 

Stormy by Jim Kjelgaard

 

Stormy by Jim Kjelgaard

Age 8-12

Grade 3-7

One of my favorite authors growing up, Jim Kjelgaard writes fantastic, realistic tales of animals and the people who live and survive as hunters, trappers and woodsmen.

In this tale, 14 year old Allen Marley is on his own trying to maintain his family’s property deep in the woods while his father serves out a jail sentence for starting a fight with a neighbor. Allen survives by hunting, fishing and trapping animals for fur, all the while hoping to make enough to get through the winter by guiding hunters during the fall duck season…if his neighbor will let them through.

When Allen rescues an injured dog from a frozen lake, his life takes a turn. He discovers that the dog is wanted for killing his previous owner…but Allen doesn’t believe Stormy is a killer. Can he save his dog and his family’s land?

Similar reads: The Haunt Fox, by Jim Kjelgaard and The Yearling by Marjorie Kinnan Rawlings

The secret horse

 

The Secret Horse- Marion Holland

(only available as a used book)

Age 8-12

Grade 4-6

Another favorite of mine from childhood, this is the story of two girls on their summer vacation. When Nickie and Gail discover a half-starved abandoned horse, they decide to take things into their own hands and save him. Hiding Highboy in a neglected, decrepit stable is the easy part. Can they keep him secret, or will the adults figure out what is going on and take him away?

This one is out of print, but if you can grab a used copy it is worth it!

Similar reads: Harriet the Spy by Louise Fitzhugh

billy and Blaze

Billy and Blaze- C.W. Anderson

Age 5-8

Grade K-2

 

All Billy dreams about are horses…big horses, small horses, spotted horses and solid horses. When Billy gets a beautiful horse of his own for his birthday, his adventures with Blaze begin!

A wonderful book for beginning readers, it is illustrated with full page pencil drawings by the author. I highly recommend this series of books for your horse-crazy kids!

The Sign of the Beaver

The Sign of the Beaver- Elizabeth George Speare

Age 10-12

Grade 5-7

Another longtime favorite of mine, this story is set in the wilderness of pre-Revolutionary War Maine. 12-year-old Matt and his father have traveled from the city to start a homestead deep in the forest, days away from the nearest English settlement.

Once the cabin is built and a small garden started, Matt’s dad leaves to guide the rest of the family back from the city, and Matt has to make it on his own while raising crops and getting the cabin ready for winter.

When Matt is robbed of his supplies and gun by an untrustworthy trapper, things look desperate. Until he catches the attention of the local Beaver tribe…and a deal is made. If Matt gives English reading lessons to the grandson of the leader, Atten, then Atten will hunt for him. The boys do not start out as friends…but over time they come to respect each other.

Once winter arrives, and Matt’s family still hasn’t arrived, Matt must make a choice: to give up on his family and leave with the Beaver tribe, or remain by himself in the cabin and hope that his family is still on the way. What will Matt decide?

Similar reads: The Light in the Forest by Conrad Richter and Hatchet by Gary Paulson

Word of Mouse

Word of Mouse- James Patterson and Chris Gabenstein, illustrated by Joe Sutphin

Age 8-12

Grade 3-7

This is an adventurous story of a blue mouse named Isaiah, who escapes from a mysterious laboratory and has to survive dangerous enemies while searching for his family. Luckily, Isaiah discovers a girl who is as lonely as he is. Together, Isaiah and Hailey have some fun adventures and discover that everyone is different in their own way.

A fast-paced and funny story told with beautiful illustrations, if your kids liked ‘The Mouse and the Motorcycle’ then they will love this tale!

Similar reads: The Bruno and Boots series by Gordon Korman.

The Trumpet of the Swan

The Trumpet of the Swan- E.B. White

Age 8-12

Grade 3-7

A children’s classic book, this is the story of a boy named Sam and a wild, mute swan named Louis. When everyone discovers that Louis can’t talk like the other swans, Sam helps Louis learn to play the trumpet. Eventually Louie decides he needs to learn to read and write, and asks Sam to help him go to school. Although Louie can now communicate with humans, he is still lonely for the company of other swans. Will Louie ever find a mate who can accept his difference?

Similar reads: Charlotte’s Web by E.B. White

Warriors

Warriors Series- Erin Hunter, illustrated by Dave Stevenson

Age 10-14

Grade 6-9

A series for kids who enjoy adventure, fantasy, danger and…..cats! When an ordinary house cat named Rusty joins up with the feral ThunderClan in their territory in the forest, he has no idea what he is getting into. The ancient rules that govern the forest have been broken, and the four clans are warring with each other. Will the evil ShadowClan destroy the ThunderClan and take over the forest? What can Rusty do to save his friends? This series will keep them reading all summer!

Similar reads: The Tales of Redwall series by Brian Jacques

King of the Wind

King of the Wind- Marguerite Henry

Age 8-12

Grade 4-6

This fantastic horse story features Sham, an Arabian horse owned by the Sultan of Morocco, and Agba, the mute stable boy who cares for him. When Sham is sent to England as a gift for the King, Agba goes along to care for him. Though terrible trials, and unable to communicate with the people around him, Agba protects Sham and the two friends struggle to survive. Will they ever find a place they can call home?

Similar reads- Misty of Chincoteague by Marguerite Henry and The Black Stallion by Walter Farley

Pax

Pax- Sara Pennypacker, illustrated by Jon Klassen

Age 8-14

Grade 4-7

This is a beautiful story of a boy and his pet fox. When they are cruelly separated, each undertakes a journey to find his best friend. Set in a vague time and country that could be now or in the near future, this book covers friendship, devotion, loss and trauma in an age appropriate way that is deeply moving for adults and children. If you haven’t read it yet, do it. You won’t be sorry.

Similar reads: The One and Only Ivan by Katherine Applegate

The Call of the Wild

Call of the Wild- Jack London

Age 9-12

Grade 4-7

 

The classic tale of Buck, the stolen pet-turned-sled dog, and his many adventures in the Alaskan wilderness. If you haven’t shared this one with the kids yet, why not get them reading it this summer?

Similar reads- White Fang by Jack London and pretty much anything by Jim Kjelgaard

Pet Food Trends: What is Pet Food made from?

Pet food trends-what pet food is made from

So we have covered why you can trust your vet to give you diet advice, and the brief history of pet foods. Today we will talk about how it is made and answer the question: What is pet food made from? I have included the most popular and trendy ingredients and supplements found in pet foods today.

So, what is pet food made from?

Due to the length of this post, I have focused mostly on primary ingredients. There are many nutrients, vitamins, fats and preservatives that are commonly used in pet foods that I have not mentioned.

The process of making pet foods has not changed very much in the last 50 years.

Even though there are more varieties of pet foods on the market than ever before, the process for making pet foods is essentially the same today as it was for our grandparents pets.

Quick Guide- Follow these links to jump to a section!

Types of Pet Food:

Kibble
Canned
Frozen raw
Fresh raw
Freeze dried

Ingredients:

Meat
Animal by products
Eggs
Wheat
Oats, barley, rice
Corn
Soybeans
Exotic grains
Dried beans, peas, lentils and chickpeas
Potatoes
Beet pulp
Cranberries, blueberries and other fruits and vegetables
Glucosamine, chondroitin and other supplements

 

Types of pet foods

Kibble

Probably the most popular form of pet food for both dogs and cats, kibble-type food are a dry food made of dried meat and/or by products ground to a meal, with carbohydrates and fats added to hold everything together and balance the nutritional profile.

Let me say this: ALL products used in a kibble diet have been dried and ground to a meal first, similar to flour in texture. There is no other way to make the food.

The base ingredients, along with additional vitamins and supplements, are mixed together and heated. Water is added to the powdered carbohydrate, which is then mixed into the meal mixture along with liquid fats. The mixture is then heated and pushed through and extruder, cut into shape and heated further to “puff” the texture of the kibble. This is then heated and dried until it is down to 6-10% in moisture content.

The kibble is then cooled and sealed into bags for storage and transport.

All kibble formulations have a carbohydrate component. In “grain free” diets this may be potato or sweet potato. The carbohydrate is necessary to the texture and shape of the food. Unfortunately, there is no other way to make a kibble.

Canned/Pouched Foods

Canned-type foods (including pate, meat-in-gravy and pouch formulas) will usually start with a meat base, made from chunks or ground meat depending on the final texture desired. This can include meat from animal muscle, animal by products or a combination. The meat is mixed and heated, and then the additional carbohydrates, vitamins and supplements are added.

The final addition is the gravy component, which can be made from thickeners like wheat gluten or gelatins. The slurry is mixed and heated, and then formed into a loaf on a baking sheet and cooked to the proper temperature.

Once cooked, the loaf mix can be put directly into cans or cut into shapes for chunky or shred-style canned/pouched food. Meat-in-gravy styles will have an additional gravy added to the chunks/shreds in the cans or pouches. The cans are then sealed and sterilized.

If a food is intended to be vegetarian, textured vegetable protein (TVP) may be used as a meat substitute.

It is most commonly made from soybeans, but can be made with wheat gluten, oats or cotton seeds. TVP and other protein gels are a common ingredient in many meat-in-gravy products.

Canned foods generally have a 70-75% water content, and are usually much higher in protein than dry kibble (measured on a dry matter basis). Since the cans or pouches undergo sterilization, they also tend to have fewer preservatives.

They are also usually lower in calories per serving. When switching from a dry kibble to a canned food, you may have to feed more of the canned food to meet your pet’s energy needs.

Other types of pet food

Frozen raw/lightly cooked foods

These foods come frozen and are usually made with raw or lightly cooked ingredients. Most often they are sold in chubs, although some manufacturers make individual sealed portions. Companies will have different standards as to how the food is processed or tested to be sure it is safe from food pathogens. These type of foods are highly perishable and can not be stored for very long. They must be defrosted before use, stored properly and used quickly after opening.

Fresh raw/lightly cooked foods

These foods are similar to the frozen varieties, except they are sold in refrigerator sections of stores. Most of these foods will be vacuum sealed and then pasteurized. Just like the similar frozen diets, companies will have different standards for processing and testing for pathogens. These foods are also highly perishable, especially if stored incorrectly, and must be used quickly after opening.

Dehydrated/Freeze dried foods

These diets can be made from raw or cooked ingredients. They are usually made from meat that has been dried or frozen, and the freeze dried. This process reduces the water content to levels that should inhibit (but not prevent) microbial growth. Some companies also use high pressure pasteurization (HPP) to prevent any food pathogens, while others rely on testing. You will have to contact each company to find out their procedure. The appearance of freeze dried foods is similar to kibble diets. Most owners add water to the food before feeding.

Pet food ingredients, and how they are labeled.

Now it is time to move on to the more controversial part of this post. Ingredients! This is where things tend to get confusing for people when researching pet foods. What is pet food made from?

First, allow me to assure you that there is no such thing as an ingredient that is used as a “filler.” Every ingredient is in there for a reason. No company is going to add something to their pet food that has no purpose (even if the purpose is marketing, and not nutrition). These companies are not medieval bakers tossing sawdust into their loaves to stretch out the flour.

Some ingredients come in different forms, and/or have different grades associated with them (see Meat).

The only way to know what grade a particular company uses of these products is to contact them directly. You can usually assume that a cheap pet food is using a lower quality, less expensive grade for their foods. However, many mid level pet foods use the same quality ingredients as the ones labeled “super premium.”

There is no such thing as “human grade” pet foods. Or rather, almost no such thing.

A company that advertises it only uses “human grade” ingredients is being deceptive, because the words have no legal meaning. The term “human gade” is not applied to a product until it has completed the manufacture and packaging process. It doesn’t matter what the ingredient is, once it is designated for pet food it can no longer be called “human grade.” This term is pure advertising and has no bearing on the quality of the food.

The exception to this rule is a pet food product made from entirely human grade ingredients that is processed and packaged in a human manufacturing facility.

The term “made with human grade” ingredients simply means that something in the food was once listed as human grade. It will be no more than 3% of the final product. You have no idea which ingredient, how much of it was used etc. It does not tell you anything useful.

Pet food labels are deceptive and tricky.

Companies know that many people now read them and use them to determine the quality of the foods. These companies have adjusted how they list things, to make their food more desirable to the consumer. See my next post on pet food marketing.

Pet food labels contain a lot less information than we think they do. Many veterinary nutritionists advise that we spend less time looking at and comparing labels until changes are made to them (if this happens).

Meat

Most pet foods will contain animal flesh in one or several forms. The most common meats found in pet food are chicken, beef and pork. Lamb use to be more uncommon, but is now pretty standard.

There is a recent trend towards the use of more exotic (and usually expensive) proteins, like fish (salmon, whitefish, trout), rabbit, duck, or kangaroo. These meats are mostly raised abroad and imported in the the country. Historically, horse meat was used in pet food, but is no longer allowed in foods made or sold in the U.S.

The exact definition changes a bit depending on species, but the types of meat used in pet foods can include the animal muscle, heart, tongue, esophagus, and connective tissues and fat. It can not contain bones, however. Those are processed separately into bone meal or are added into animal by products.

For a kibble product, the meat has to be rendered (fats removed) and dried, and then ground into a meal before it is added to the food.

So any kibble product that lists “chicken” or “beef” as an ingredient, as opposed to “chicken meal” or “beef meal” is being deceptive.

Since ingredients are listed on a label by weight, you have no way to judge how much chicken or beef is really in the kibble when they are listed like this. All the “chicken” on the label tells you is that before it was dried and ground to a meal, the chicken weighed more than the next ingredient. It is deceptive because all a company has to do is use a small amount of the “meat” in order for it to be listed first.

As meat loses most of its weight when the water is removed, it is likely that if the company listed the meat as it was used in the food it would be much further down on the label.

This manipulation is done precisely so that owners who look at labels are deceived into thinking the food contains more meat, by weight, than is really in the food.

For canned foods you can expect the proteins to be labeled as “chicken” or “pork,” however, since they have not had to be made into a meal for processing.

Meat can also be listed by specific organ part, most usually as “chicken liver meal” or the like. Although liver (and similar organs) can be considered a by product of the meat production, this single organ origin is likely to be listed separately if the food contains no other by products. Liver is high in vitamin A, hence its inclusion in many pet foods.

Higher quality pet foods will usually list the meat meal by animal, saying something like “chicken meal, beef meal.” If the ingredient is listed simply as “meat meal,” animal meal” or “fish meal,” then it is of an unknown composition, most likely of several kinds of animals. Companies will also use “poultry meal” for an unknown mix of chicken, turkey and other fowl. The use of generic animal meals is usually seen in the lower quality products.

There is no way to know, from looking at a label, what quality of meat or meal a pet food is made from. Not all “chickens” or “chicken meals” are the same, even if they are called the same thing on a label. You will have to contact the individual pet food manufacturer to ask about their products.

Meats and meat meals will vary in price based on the species origin and quality of the product.

Only roughly 40% of a slaughtered animal is meat protein that can be carved from the carcass, and much of this will be sold for human consumption. The rest of the meat will be removed from the carcass mechanically- this is the meat that usually ends up in pet foods or ground meat products like sausages/hot dogs.

So, for a steer weighing 1200 pounds at slaughter, the producer can expect about 500 pounds of boneless meat cuts.

The 60% of the remaining carcass will be processed as ground meat and by product, or for use in other industries (such as leather producers or cosmetics).

Beef, chicken, pork, eggs and fish are all proteins that are commonly associated with food allergies (although confirmed food allergies in pets are rare overall). I will cover this in another post in more detail.

ANY protein can trigger a food allergy. Food allergies are not related to the quality of the protein. Pets usually develop food allergies over time and with repeated exposure to the protein. It is best to limit the kinds of meat your pet is exposed to (stick to the common chicken, beef, pork and lamb products), and save the exotic proteins in case your pet does happen to develop one in the future.

Animal by products

Americans are strange, in that we like to eat meat but we tend to avoid everything but the animal muscle. Technically, the U.S.D.A considers everything except the muscle meat a by product of the animal manufacturing or slaughtering process.

This includes organs like the liver, kidneys, pancreas, thyroid, stomach, large and small intestines, lungs, brain and blood. It also includes inedible parts of the animal like feathers, hooves, fur, teeth, leather and bones.

So technically even things that Americans are willing to eat (sometimes) like marrow bones, sweetbreads, liver and tripe are by products. Sausage casings made from animal intestines are by products. Eggs and milk are also animal by products, since they are products produced from the animal manufacturing process.

See, it gets complicated further. Animal by products also include also include animals that are sick or diseased, and even some animals from zoos.

So what is your pet eating when the label indicates that there is a by product in it? It depends…

Animal by products used in animal feed can not contain inedible parts like fur, feathers, teeth or animal hide. It does include parts often eaten by humans like liver and kidneys but will also include things that humans usually don’t eat, like lungs and udders.

The by products are mixed, processed and rendered, and then either used as-is or made into a meal. There are different grades of by product as well by product meals. Higher grades have more and a higher quality protein, whereas lower grades will have a lower protein content and may be less digestible.

Animal by products can be identified by species origin, as in “chicken by products,” or they can be a generic mixture labeled “animal by products,” “meat by products” or “poultry by products.”

Even quality pet food manufacturers use by products in their food, although companies are moving away from the practice. The higher grades of by product are only slightly lower in protein than a primary meat and are generally quite digestible. The lower grades and mixed species grades are not as high in protein and digestibility.

Obviously, it is “natural” for dogs and cats to eat some by products.

If they were hunting animals, they would certainly eat them. And a high quality by product in a food is still better than a low quality primary meat (or meat meal). However, for many consumers the “ick” factor is too high to overcome, and they avoid products that contain them. Many companies are phasing out the use of by products due to consumer demand.

The hallmark of a low quality pet food is one where the primary meat protein source is an unidentified “animal by product” or “meat by product.”

Of course, animal by products are less expensive than their equivalent meat or meat meal.

Eggs

Eggs are used in pet foods as a binder and source of digestible proteins, along with fats and fatty acids. They are often found in foods designed for sensitive stomachs or for pets with certain food allergies. Eggs can be a food that some pets develop allergies to, however, as mentioned in the Meat section.

Wheat

Wheat’s presence in pet foods is a hot topic in discussions these days. However, it has been an ingredient of dog biscuits and kibble from the beginning. It was the most common source of carbohydrate in pet foods prior to the current “grain free” fad.

Wheat is classified as a grain. There are several forms of wheat that appear on pet food labels, and they serve different purposes. Wheat is added as a source of protein, carbohydrates, minerals, vitamins and fats.

Wheat can be listed as a whole grain, in which case it mixed in as a flour to bind the kibble and give it texture.

Whole wheat contains all of the constituent parts of the wheat kernel except the outer chaff. Wheat can also be used as its isolated parts as well.

Wheat gluten is very high in protein, since most of the carbohydrates have been washed away. It is used to increase protein content in the food, to thicken gravies and to make the “meat” chunks in canned foods.

Wheat bran is the outer hull of the wheat grain. Wheat bran is added to pet foods because it is high in fiber and certain fats. It also contains protein, carbohydrates, minerals and vitamins.

Wheat germ is the embryo of the wheat seed. It is high in many essential nutrients, vitamins and fats, and also contains fiber.

Wheat products are generally well tolerated in pet foods. While some owners feel that eating grains is unnatural for dogs and cats, the replacement for grains are other, simpler carbohydrate sources like potato and sweet potato (see below).

Due to its current and historic inclusion in pet foods, wheat is one of the proteins commonly associated with food allergies. Wheat allergies are considered rare. Beef, chicken, fish and eggs are far more common food allergies.

Oats, barley and rice

There are other grains that are often found in pet foods. Oats, barley and rice are all common ingredients. Depending on the grade and quality, they can add protein, carbohydrates, fiber, vitamins and fats to the diet. Also, these grains are considered highly digestible and better for your pet’s health than simple carbohydrate ingredients.

These ingredients can come in different grades, but are almost always going to be a grade of animal feed and not from the human food chain. Brewers rice, for instance, is simply rice that is small or broken into pieces, and as such unsuitable for resale as a human food.

The nutritional profile of these grains is going to vary depending on the source and the quality. You will have to contact the company for more information.

Corn

This is another controversial ingredient in pet foods. Corn and corn products are used in pet foods as a source of protein and carbohydrates, essential fatty acids and nutrients. Corn is highly digestible in its processed form and is considered a good source of protein and carbohydrates.

The corn that is in pet foods is not the sweet corn you buy and eat as corn on the cob. Instead it is a form of animal feed called dent corn. This corn is smaller than sweet corn, and has a different nutritional profile.

Corn can be used whole, as in cornmeal or corn flour, or used in parts to balance a pet food’s profile.

Cornmeal/corn flour– This is the entire kernel of corn dried and ground to a meal. It contains protein, carbohydrates, fiber, fatty acids and nutrients.

Corn gluten– This is processed corn where the carbohydrates have been removed and the protein concentrated. It is a highly digestible protein source. However, corn protein is missing certain essential amino acids, and so must be balanced by another source of protein that provides them.

Cornstarch– Use in pet foods as a highly digestible source of carbohydrates, it can also be added as a thickener to gravy-based pet foods. Cornstarch is the carbohydrate material  left over after processing the corn gluten.

Corn sugars– High fructose corn syrup, fructose, sucrose…corn based sugars can have many different names. While cornstarch can be a good source of carbohydrate, these corn sugars are inexpensive additions that do not do much for the nutritional profile. Most quality pet foods have eliminated them or reduced the amounts included in the foods.

Corn is used because it is both a nutritious and digestible product and because it is inexpensive.

The corn industry is subsidized by the federal government, making animal feed corn a viable option for pet foods. Corn is also generally considered to be one of the lower allergenic protein sources (based on food elimination trials), and is an ingredient of many food sensitive and hypoallergenic pet foods.

Corn meals and starches come in different grades. A high quality grade of corn gluten provides more nutrition and protein than a low quality meat by product, for example. The key, as always, is the balance of the pet food as a whole.

Soybeans

Soybeans are a legume like peas. Soy products are used in pet foods, although there is some controversy over their inclusion in them. Soybeans are used mostly for their protein content, although soy flours and meals also contain carbohydrates.

Soy can be added as soy flour, soybean meal or as soy protein concentrate (SPC). The challenge with soy is that many pets experience flatulence and belching if they consume too much of it. The SPC has had most of its carbohydrates removed, which reduces this effect. Soy flours and meals are high in protein and carbohydrates and generally have a balanced nutritional profile. However, these diets are also less palatable to dogs (they taste like beans) than the SPC.

Almost all commercial use of soybeans are from GMO soy plants.

In 2014, 82% of soy grown worldwide was from GMO plants, and this number is increasing. As the demand for non-GMO soy grows, there are more options for those who want GMO-free soy products.

Another problem with soybeans is that they contain things that can be potentially detrimental to some pets. Soy antigens can trigger an immune response, for instance, that can damage the intestines and reduce their ability to absorb nutrients. There are also questions about how soy can mimic some hormones (such as estrogen). We do not know what the long term effects of this is on our pets (or ourselves).

The pet food industry recommends that soy not make up more than 5-15% of a pet food, to reduce the side effects and the possible negative impact on pet health.

Exotic grains

Quinoa, freekeh! It seems like we rediscovery an ancient grain every few years. Although pet foods containing the exotic grains are not common, they are becoming more common. The nutritional profile for these foods will vary, depending on the grain and processing method.

We have not studied these ingredients in pet foods, and there have been no scientific trials done to see how dogs and cats do on them long term. They are more expensive than traditional grains and are usually grown outside the country and imported.

Dried beans, peas, lentils, chickpeas etc

Beans, peas, lentils and related ingredients are becoming more common in pet foods. They are typically seen in diets designed for suspected food allergy or food sensitive pets. These products are also used in “grain free” pet foods as a replacement for the grains. They are added to increase the carbohydrate and fiber content of the diet, and contain many nutrients and vitamins along with some protein.

The downside to using beans, peas and lentils is that they can cause an upset stomach in some pets. The fiber in these foods can react with the starches and ferment in the intestine, leading to the flatulence. Not all pets have this reaction, and many tolerate these ingredients very well.

A note about the use of lentils and chickpeas in pet food. These are recent additions to pet foods, and have not been studied using food trials or other testing.

Potatoes

Potatoes and sweet potatoes are both included in pet food as a source of carbohydrates and minerals. They contain almost no fat and are low in protein in their natural form. If the entire potato is used then they will also include some fiber. They are generally considered an easily digestible carbohydrate source, and are an ingredient in many food sensitive and hypoallergenic formulas.

Potatoes can be processed into potato powder, which is higher in protein than the complete potato. Potato can also be used as a thickener, in the form of potato starch.

Potato by product is the waste from other processed potato products. It is mostly used as an inexpensive fiber source in low quality pet foods.

Sweet potato is a newer inclusion, and has a different nutritional profile from white potatoes. However, the use of sweet potato as a primary carbohydrate source in pet foods has not been studied.

Beet pulp

When you think beets, you are probably thinking those lovely red globes you buy at the grocery store! Beet pulp, on the other hand, conjures up the image of a red slurry of beet juice and fiber. So what is beet pulp? And why is it in your pet’s food?

Beet pulp is produced from the sugar beet industry as a waste product. After all of the beet juice has been centrifuged from the solids (the juice is processed into sugar) you are left with handfuls of a brown fiber that look similar to hay.

Beet pulp has many micronutrients….for those animals able to digest it. It is used extensively as a feed supplement for horses. In pet foods, beet pulp is a source of insoluble fiber. It is used in weight loss formulas to help pets feel full while eating less food (since it is indigestible), and also in diets designed for pets with hairballs, constipation or other digestive disorders.

Beet pulp is also found in many “grain free” formulas, since they avoid using fiber from grain sources.

Cranberries, blueberries and other fruit and vegetables

It is very trendy to have fruits and vegetables pictured on pet food labels. Cranberries and blueberries are especially popular right now, but broccoli, kale and artichokes also show up. So should you be searching for a pet food that contains them?

The amounts of these products used in pet food is minimal, and has shown to have no health benefits. While drinking cranberry juice may help humans with urinary tract infections, there is no evidence that the inclusion of cranberries in pet food has any benefit to their urinary tract. Consumers would probably be better off using an approved cranberry supplement designed for this purpose.

The inclusion of berries and other fruits and vegetables like broccoli and carrots is about marketing, not nutrition. If you really want your pet to have them in their diet, you would be better off giving them the fruit or vegetables directly, or making your own pet treats that contain them.

Glucosamine, chondroitin and other supplements

There is a big market for pet foods that support joint health and skin! As our pets age (and become overweight), osteoarthritis and other joint problems often appear. So manufacturers have started adding joint supplements to their pet foo

The issue with using pet foods instead of a separate supplement (or supplements) is that the pet foods do not contain enough of the supplement to benefit the health of the pet.

The supplements are added in low enough amounts that a pets of all sizes can safely eat the food. This means that such supplements in pet food will be added in small, subtherapeutic amounts.

For instance, you can’t assume that a 5 pound dog will only ever eat half as much food as a 10 pound dog, or that a 100 pound dog will always eat exactly twice as much kibble as a 50 pound dog. Since supplements must be given in the proper dose (based on the weight of the pet) to have any effect, having a little bit of the supplement in the food does nothing for your pet.

If your pet needs a joint supplement, or suffers from skin issues, you would be better off buying a high quality pet supplement and giving it to your pet directly at the proper dose.

There is no evidence that supplements given at low levels contributes anything towards your pet’s health. If the supplement is taken in amounts lower than the therapeutic range, there are no health benefits.

This is another pet food ingredient that is more marketing than nutrition.

Now you know in detail the answer to the question “What is pet food made from?” Next up on the Food Trends series, I will talk about how pet food is marketed to consumers. Future topics include the envonmental impact of pet foods and the best way to store pet foods.

Pet Food Trends: History of Pet Foods

History of pet food

While dogs and humans have been coevolving for more than 15,000 years, commercial pet food has only been around for about 100 years. So what did dogs eat for the other 14,900 years?

A little bit of ancient history

Dogs in the distant past probably ate a mixture of human food scraps and whatever they could scrounge for themselves. Obviously dogs in different parts of the world ate what was local to that area.

Different lifestyles would lead to different diets. When most dog owners were herders, dogs probably ate more meat and other related products like milk and cheese. Once agriculture took off, dogs were eating the same cereal grains, vegetables and carbohydrates as their human owners.

Unless the owner was quite wealthy, it is unlikely that most dogs were regularly given prime cuts of meat. Most humans ate meat only rarely themselves. A cherished dog would probably get an occasional, thoroughly stewed soup bone, or scraps left over from butchering an animal.

Remember, internal organs were highly valued as a food source!

These would not have been wasted as dog food, since they were too important to the human’s diet.

We tend to look back and see the past as an idyllic time, but there is no question in my mind that dogs and cats have never lived as well as they do today. With advances in veterinary medicine, nutrition, vaccines and our changing attitude of the role pets play in our lives, pets today are pampered in ways that would mystify many historic pet owners.

Before the advent of spay/neuter surgeries in the 1930’s, there would have been fairly unchecked reproduction.

So why was the ancient world not overrun by dogs? For the same reason that humans often had eight or 10 or even more pregnancies: high mortality. The dogs who survived puppyhood still died earlier than they do today, from disease, malnutrition/starvation, and injury.

If there ever was a time in history that I would like to live the life of a dog, it is today!

So put aside your mental image of the past. Few dogs had the Lord of the Manor tossing venison steaks into their kennels. Most dogs were lucky to get some crusts of stale bread or other grain, whatever vegetables were left and maybe a scrap of meat on occasion. Whole and balanced is not a description that can be used to describe these diets!

Dogs are not wolves; Cats are not domesticated.

This 15,000 years of coevolution means that dogs are different from wolves. Some breeds are dramatically different (think chihuahua and mastiff). Dogs have the ability to digest carbohydrates, which wolves generally lack. Modern canines have a longer digestive tract than wolves as well. Dogs are omnivores, just as we are.

House cats, on the other hand, have evolved in their own way. We don’t fully understand the evolutionary history of Felis catus. There are even theories that cats have domesticated themselves.

However, scientists do not consider cats to be fully domesticated. We all know that many cats can and will revert to the feral state, if left without human care. So cats have not changed as much as dogs have, through their association with us.

Cats are also obligate carnivores, meaning that they require a diet made of animal flesh and even blood and bones.

The ideal diet for a cat is the mouse.

But, studies show that domestic cats do, in fact, have a limited ability to digest carbohydrates. Which makes sense. All those millennia cats have been eating rodents in the grain silos and in the fields. It is not surprising that they have evolved a way to get something nutritionally out of the contents of the rodent’s stomach.

Nutritionally, cats and dogs have very different needs. And while dogs are closer to humans, they still have unique needs.

Commercial Pet Foods enter the market.

The first commercial pet food was a dog biscuit, what we would call a treat today. Made in England in 1860’s, it started a trend. In the 1920’s, canned pet foods entered the market, usually made of horse meat. By the 1950’s commercial kibble and canned foods were on store shelves across the U.S.

It was still common for dogs to get table scraps. The concept of an indoor-only cat was about 20-30 years away, so most cats were probably supplementing their diet with the local fauna.

My own grandmother, born in 1923, thought buying pet food was a waste of money. Her pets were fed table scraps and a specially prepared meatloaf with added vitamins. She only started using commercial pet food in the 90’s, when she was no longer able to prepare it herself.

To this day, I think of dog food when I see meatloaf!

By the 1990’s the pet food industry was worth $7.85 million U.S.

Most pets in the U.S. and Europe were now eating mainly a commercial diet bought in a store. It was no longer the norm to scrape your leftovers into the dog bowl, although we still liked to give our pets human food as a treat.

More manufacturers joined the game, and we started to see an interesting effect in the pet food industry. Whatever food trend was popular with humans within a few short years became popular with pet owners, especially dog owners. Low fat, high protein, wheat free, grain free, low carb, high fiber, all natural and more…the trend in pet foods followed the same trend in human diets.

Is it any surprise that we feel more comfortable when our dogs eat the same diet we do? 15k years of coevolution….nope, it isn’t a surprise!

These commercial foods have evolved into the many diets we have available today.

The pet food industry is expected to be valued at $27 billion U.S. in 2018. The market for these foods is growing rapidly. And these companies are fighting over your pet food dollars like never before! I will talk more about this in a future post, but have no doubt that advertisers are targeting you in their pet food ads!

Yes, pet foods are processed foods.

The process of making pet food hasn’t changed that much over the last 50 years, while the ingredients have shifted a bit. Only a bit, as you will see in a future post.

All pet foods are processed, and most are highly processed. Not all processing is bad, though it has a negative association to us today. We process foods so they will not spoil when being stored. Processing grain allows us to make flour, for instance, which can then be stored for much longer than the grain itself could.

Another reason to process a food is to make it more digestible. Notice that if you eat corn on the cob, you will see the remnants in your, ahem, stool. When you eat corn tortillas, however, you don’t see the evidence the next day. The process of making the tortillas makes the corn more digestible by removing the indigestible portions, grinding it up and cooking it.

Tortillas are a processed food. So are the pre-cut bags of salad greens and “baby carrots” that are so popular in grocery stores today!

You process food every time you cook a meal in your kitchen, as well.

The act of processing foods, however, can change their nutritional make-up. Cooking and heating foods can destroy certain components, which in a commercial product may require that a company add things back into the food to balance it.

The unintended side-effects of processing have caused problems for pet foods, particularly canned foods. The heat necessary to manufacture both dry and canned pet foods causes some loss of these nutrients and amino acids, taurine in particular (an amino acid that cats require in their diet). It is worse in canned foods due to the high heat requirements of the canning process.

This discovery was made in the late 1980’s when many cats eating both dry and canned diets suffered from symptoms of taurine deficiency, even though the amount of taurine added to the foods was considered adequate. Nowadays, canned pet foods contain a higher proportion of taurine than dry to offset this loss.

So the fact that commercial pet food is a processed food doesn’t make it evil or dangerous.

All pet food is processed, whether in your kitchen or in a factory.

This also doesn’t mean that raw or unprocessed foods are necessarily healthier. If the food contains a nutrient your pet needs, but can’t digest in a raw form, then it isn’t really doing them any good to eat it raw. See the corn example above. Some things will pass right through the digestive system unless they are in the correct form (commonly referred to as bioavailable).

What do pets need in their diet? We are still learning…

All dogs require protein, carbohydrates and fats in their diet. The relative amounts recommended will differ between dogs based on breed, age, health and lifestyle. High protein dog foods are enjoying marked popularity right now, even though there are no studies showing any advantage to this kind of diet in the average pet dog.

Cats require animal protein and fats in their diet, while their carbohydrate needs are either small (1-3%) or none, depending on which expert you believe. The problem here is that no one has done the long term studies we need, on a large enough scale, to really determine whether carbohydrates in cat foods are safe or not.

We are still learning about pet nutrition (and human nutrition too)!

This can feel frustrating to pet owners.

When something goes awry in a commercial pet food product, we want to blame the company for being greedy or for not knowing something was wrong.

Sometimes this is fair! The company should have known, or taken action sooner (see information on the major pet food recalls of 2007). But sometimes we just didn’t know the information until we discover it, after pets have suffered the health consequences of a deficient diet.

We did not know that cats required additional taurine in their diets until researchers showed it in the 1970’s. And they only began to study the question after several cats eating commercial dog food diets went blind!

Pet nutrition is a field that is still in its learning phase. While some things have been well studied (like taurine deficiency in dogs and cats), others have not. This is because the type of studies that are potentially the most useful are also the most expensive and sometimes do not yield useful results for many years.

Science builds on itself, one study at a time.

Ideally, we would want to study pet nutrition over the lifespan of a pet. To do long term feeding trials requires a researcher to acquire as many closely related animals as possible, and to have them live their natural lifespan in a completely controlled environment.

This is pretty easy to do with fruit flies and mice, two species used heavily in scientific research. This is not so easy to do using dogs and cats, and the ethics involved are more complex.

Another option for researchers is to work with veterinarians and pet owners to self-report information, and then draw conclusions from the results of the surveys. These kind of studies are useful but limited. Self reported information is often biased and inaccurate, and it can be hard to draw conclusions from studies based entirely on these kinds of surveys.

True lifespan studies on pet nutrition are rare.

Researchers working on a lifespan study might have to wait 10+ years before they have results if they are using cats or dogs as their model, instead of the aforementioned flies or mice.

And the results may or may not be generalized to all pets. Just because a study says something about the nutritional needs of a German Shepherd does not mean it will be the same for a teacup yorkie.

So most feeding studies are done on a small number of pets for a limited amount of time, and are usually focused on measuring something specific. A study might look at blood plasma levels of taurine in British shorthair cats fed different controlled diets. Or researchers might examine how stool formation and gut fermentation changes with increased dietary protein in dogs.

Most pet foods have never been subjected to any kind of scientific feeding trials.

This includes the diets produced by small, boutique brands, raw food diets and the ever trendy “grain free” diets. Even short term feeding trials are very expensive. Most companies simply can’t afford the cost of doing them. Nor do these companies see any value in doing them.

Pet owners often don’t trust the data produced by those companies who make pet foods, and even when they do, this kind research doesn’t make us more likely to buy that food.

Science-minded folk like myself are skeptical of these studies if we can’t see the entire research behind the conclusions. Just saying “7 out of 10 dogs…” had a certain result is not convincing.

The informed consumer often doesn’t trust the research done by the big pet food manufacturers, because they assume it is biased since the company is trying to sell their product.

And yes, the pet food companies doing this kind of research are the big companies, who have scientists working in house and who can invest millions into the study design.

Here’s the thing: Every single pet food company is trying to sell you their product.

Whether it is your local pet boutique that makes its own raw diet or one of the big guys…they want you to buy their product and not the other guy’s product. That vet who markets a book on homemade diets is trying to sell you their product too.

A small or even medium sized company can’t invest millions of dollars (assuming they have it) and years of research in a product unless this gives them a marketing advantage. For most pet food companies, the cost of doing this is far more than any benefit they might get out of it. Even if they wanted to do this kind of research, they can’t until the company itself is large enough to handle the expense.

This is why almost all of the research on pet nutrition is done by universities, veterinary institutes and the major pet food manufacturers.

I think it is smart to be skeptical about the claims made by any pet food company. At the same time, I think it is worth reading any research the claims are based on. I try not to throw the science out the door just because I don’t like the company it came from.

The irony is that the most thoroughly tested pet foods are the therapeutic diets you find at the vet office! Pet food skeptics are usually the first to dismiss these diets as inferior and low quality.

Since these foods are designed to manage specific health problems, they undergo far more testing during development, and far more testing during routine manufacture, than any other kind of pet food!

For myself, I trust the science behind pet food research when I can read and evaluate the study myself.

I trust in the advice and opinions of veterinary nutritionists (people with a degree in vet medicine, a PhD in pet nutrition and further accreditation in pet nutrition).

I am skeptical of many of the claims made by big pet food companies, while allowing that some of their research may be valid. I’m not convinced by clever marketing that uses buzzwords like “all natural,” “made with real meat” or “super premium.” I am very skeptical of the owner-anecdotes that fill many blogs and internet sites.

You will have to decide which information you trust, through your own experiences and research.

Your best resource for information on what your pet’s dietary needs are is your vet!

Find a vet that shares your values, who is continually educating themself in the science of nutrition. Share your research with your vet! Work together to make the best decision for your pet.

I personally do not believe that there is one diet that is best for all pets. Every choice has consequences and trade-offs. I am wary of folks who insist that anyone who does not follow their regime is poisoning their pet.

Most of our pets will do just fine with the diet we choose to feed them. And our choices will change as their age, health and lifestyles change.

I believe there are good choices to be made in almost every category of pet diet. Whatever you decide, pet parent, just make it an informed decision! Never be afraid to talk to your vet about your concerns.

Next in this series, I will go over common and not-so-common pet food ingredients and also how pet foods are made. Further posts will cover how pet foods are marketed, specifically targeting our personal values and emotions. Subscribe today to never miss a post!

You can find the first post in this series PetFood Trends: Should you Trust Your Vet’s Advice? Here.

Pet Food Trends: Should you trust your Vet’s advice?

Pet food trends

There is probably no question about pets that is more loaded than the question of what pet food you should be feeding your dog or cat.

In this series of posts, I am going to give you some facts and information to help you decide and feel good about the pet food you choose to feed your pets.

Today I am going to focus on the role veterinarians play in our decisions to use a particular brand or diet. Also, a little background on pet food manufacturers, representatives and the role of store owners in this equation.

Facts, rumors, opinions and lies about pet food.

If you look online, you will find sites that tell you your pet should be on a raw diet, a pure-raw-no-carb diet, a “holistic” diet, a grain free diet or a completely homemade diet. The list is endless. There are a lot of opinions out there. It can be hard to sort facts from opinions.

You will find sites that say pets should be fed “human grade” ingredients, organic only foods, foods made “with real meat” and foods that are not full of “filler” ingredients like corn, rice, wheat, or animal by-products.

Someone will post a story of how their pet had a particular issue that was solved when the owner discovered the principle of (fill in diet type). Your friend at the dog park may look at you smugly and state that their Fluffy only eats a premium boutique brand made from kangaroo and rare tropical fruits…

There is a lot of information on the internet on what pet food to feed your pet, much of it contradictory.

I think the most insidious rumor is one I have heard over and over. I have heard this from representatives of premium dog food companies. I’ve been told it by pet store owners. I have seen it on the web. It has been stated to me in the exam room as I checked in a client.

I even believed it, when I was younger and knew less than I know now.

That rumor is that veterinarians know nothing about pet nutrition because it is not taught in vet school.

So you should never trust your vet when they make a diet recommendation. Trust in the pet store owner, or the blogger, or the boutique company selling you a premium food at a premium price…but don’t trust your vet.

This is a lie.

Vet schools do, in fact, teach up-to-date pet nutrition. Vets actually have to learn about nutrition for dogs, cats, reptiles/amphibians, birds, rodents, rabbits, horses, sheep, goats, cows and more. Of course vets will specialize in large animal, small animal or exotic animal care. And some vets will spend more time than others in keeping themselves current on pet nutrition. But they still cover the basics of all of them in vet school.

Veterinary medicine has evolved in the last 50 years, as has human medicine. This rumor may have been true at some point. It is also true that human doctors were not trained in nutrition or pain management until recently. Times change, fields change, and the science behind nutrition (for animals and humans) is ever evolving.

I think this rumor has gained traction on the internet for several reasons.

There was a period in the 90’s and early 00’s when there were few places other than a grocery store or pet store to buy pet food. Many vets saw that people wanted a place to find reliable, quality pet foods.

So in addition to carrying veterinary prescription diets (more on these in my next post), they also carried regular pet foods made by the same company. Which, in the 90’s, meant that vets almost exclusively carried products made by the Hill’s Science Diet company.

The problem here is that pet owners started to associate Hills foods with veterinary clinics.

As people became more skeptical of medicine in general, they also became skeptical of their veterinarian’s recommendations.

When more pet supply and boutique stores opened and started carrying other high-quality options, there was more competition. The new pet food manufacturers had to convince these boutique owners to carry their products. The boutique owners had to, in turn, convince pet owners that this food was better than what the vet was selling.

I worked at a small, local pet store in the early 00’s. The store sold Science Diet foods along with a number of other premium brands. Staff were trained about pet foods primarily from the different food manufacturer’s representatives. This is how I first heard the rumor (lie) that veterinarians were not taught anything about nutrition in vet school.

If someone asked for advice on what to feed their pet, the store owners would steer customers away from SD foods, to the other brands. Even though they used the SD foods in house for their stock!

I noticed when doing inventory that the other brands had a higher markup than the SD foods.

Our main competitor for pet food sales in the area was not another pet store…it was the vet clinic a few doors down. Our SD prices matched theirs, exactly.

I am not saying that these owners were disingenuous about their advice. I think they believed what the representatives were telling them. But they also had a business to run. They used the food in house that was the most cost-effective for them.

I learned a lot about how to sell specific foods to specific customers.

Don’t misunderstand me. I am not saying that this competition was or is a bad thing!

I think it is great that we have so many options.

But I think it is important to recognize that marketing has an impact on what we buy. Our pet food purchases are influenced by these marketing campaigns. The people giving you brand advice are also influenced by marketing. Surprised?

There is also an assumption on many websites that vets are only trying to make more money off of you when they recommend a food product that they sell.

The thing is, no one makes much money selling pet food unless they are selling it in very high volumes. The only way to make a lot of money selling pet food is to sell A LOT of it. Or to sell a lot of other things with a better profit margin to make up the difference, which is how many pet boutiques survive.

Most vet clinics can not compete with pet supply stores in food sales.

Pet boutiques sell a lot more pet food than the typical vet clinic. Nowadays, most vet clinics carry prescription diets and a limited number of non-prescription diets (if any).

I only know of a few clinics that still try to compete with the boutiques by carrying general, non-prescription foods. Vet clinics just don’t usually have the room to store and display that much food.

The slight profit made off of pet food sales at most clinics will just about cover the cost of storing, rotating, displaying and inventorying the foods. No vet is driving a Porsche off the profits from selling pet food. Breaking even is the best most vet clinics can hope for from their pet food sales.

So no, vets are not recommending a diet to you because it will fund their next exotic vacation.

Vet clinics also do not choose the price they sell prescription diets for.

Every clinic I have worked at has sold their food at the manufacturer’s suggested retail price (MSRP). We were not counting on it for company profits. We just wanted to have the foods that our clients needed, when they needed it.

This is why prescription veterinary diets are usually sold at the exact same price, regardless of where you buy them. There really is little-to-no variation in the base price of a specific diet between clinics or even online.

This leads to the final reason I think many people have come to mistrust veterinarian’s with diet recommendations.

Most vet’s really don’t care what brand of pet food you are feeding.

They don’t care that you buy a premium diet from a trendy boutique. Vets don’t care if you are using a grocery store brand. They don’t care if you are feeding raw, freeze dried or a mixture of diets.

What they care about is how what you are feeding effects your pet’s health. If your pet is healthy, at the appropriate weight and enjoys the food, then most vets are content.

So when owners ask vets what brand they should be feeding, they are not getting an answer that feels solid and satisfactory. Instead of hearing they should be feeding “Brand X” they get a bunch of information that forces them to do the research and make the decision on their own.

This kind of advice is emotionally unsatisfying to us pet owners.

Pet boutique staff, on the other hand, will most certainly give you specific brand advice. That is their job.

Your vet and their staff are also not judging you based on the brand of food you feed your pet. The only time they are going to wade into the issue is when your pet has a health issue that is influenced by diet.

So if your pet has kidney problems, your vet will certainly care if you are feeding a high protein diet, and will recommend a veterinary prescription diet instead. But ‘Taste of the Wild’ vs ‘Blue Buffalo’ is not something they are going to judge you for. Nor will they look down on you because your dog prefers ‘Kibbles ‘n Bits.’

But clients expect to be judged when they are asked about their pet’s diet at a vet clinic.

Where is this expectation coming from?

One thing I can state with certainty: There has never been a time in history when we face more judgement over our pet food choices than we do currently.

We feel judged by our families, friends, coworkers and acquaintances. So of course we expect to be judged at the vet clinic as well.

Hence the discord on internet groups, and among friends at daycare or the dog parks. We pet owners are the main culprits in this judgement trend, and we do it to each other.

When a vet does make a specific food recommendation, usually for health reasons, we are already primed to mistrust the advice. The premium pet-food industry has many of us convinced that certain things are the markers of a quality pet food- and the prescription diets usually lack these things.

If your vet recommends a diet that contains something you think is bad for your pet, then you are going to mistrust their advice.

And you know what?

Your vet is going to give you the facts they have about that ingredient, and then they are going to move on. Unless there is a specific concern, like the aforementioned pet with kidney disease, they are not going to try and argue with you.

Of course, veterinarians are individuals. Some vets may have particular brands or types of food that they truly have strong opinions about. No wonder it is so confusing to us pet parents!

The one thing that all veterinarians, pet food manufacturers and pet boutique owners know is that emotions have a big influence over what food we choose for our pets.

We feed our pets the food that makes us feel like good pet parents.

Ultimately, the decision of what pet food to feed your pet will be influenced by emotions as much as by nutrition.

So yes, you can trust your vet to give you advice on feeding your pet! Your vet has received education on pet nutrition and probably does continuing education to keep up on the science behind it.

If you honestly feel like your vet is not giving you good advice, or if you don’t trust the advice they give you then find another vet you can trust.

Keep in mind that every brand is trying to sell you something…and that their marketing is directed at your emotions. You can be a great cat mama even if you feed them Friskies.

In the end, what matters most to your pet’s health is their whole environment. Diet is a factor, of course. But there is no brand that is perfect for every pet. You are doing a great job, pet parent! Most of us do not need to stress out over pet food.

In my next post on Pet Food Trends, I will give you information on ingredients, how pet food is made and why you should never buy pet food in bulk. Subscribe now and never miss a post in this series!

You can find the next post in the series Pet Food Trends: The History of Pet Foods here!

What is Fear Free Veterinary Medicine?

Fear free

There is a new trend in veterinary medicine called the Fear Free movement. These certified veterinary and animal professionals are changing the game when it comes to human-animal interactions.

What is the Fear Free Movement?

Do you have a pet that really hates going to the vet? Is it hard to get your dog to get on the scale, or does your cat refuse to come out of its carrier in the exam room? Then you might really benefit from a Fear Free certified veterinary practice.

The Fear Free movement is probably the most important thing to happen to veterinary medicine in modern times. It is influencing not only how veterinarians and their staff interact with animals in the clinic- it is changing how we design the clinics themselves!

A single bad experience at the vet can set your pet up for a lifetime of fear and stress.

Many “old school” vet clinics still use brute force to get animals to comply with their exam and treatments. They may use several people to hold down a dog who doesn’t want a nail trim or vaccine, for instance. The use of brute force might work in the short term. But all it really does is teach your pet that the vet is a really scary place.

The idea behind Fear Free is to use every tool possible to set up a positive experience for your pet while at the vet. It also minimizes the use of techniques that cause stress or scare the pet (or owner). It is common for Fear Free clinics to use pheromone products through the clinic to create a calm atmosphere. These clinics will use treats and other rewards to motivate your pet to cooperate.

Fear Free clinics will also avoid the use of physical force to get your pet to cooperate.

Instead of dragging your cat out of a carrier, they may open the door and talk to you while they wait for the pet to emerge.

Fear Free clinics don’t force a shy dog to get onto the scale- they will use treats and patience. A Fear Free practitioner is going to stop if they see your pet is getting nervous, and spend some time reassuring them that everything is OK.

The Fear Free movement is formed from using the most up-to-date research in animal behavior, training and low-stress handling techniques.

This is not just window dressing. While there may be some clinics out there using it primarily as a marketing tool, in my experience and the experience of many veterinary professionals I know, this movement has had and is having a profound effect on veterinary medicine.

Moreover, as the movement has gained traction over the last few years, vet clinics are being redesigned with the principles of Fear Free in mind. You now see clinics with separate waiting areas for dogs and cats, exam rooms designed specifically for cats with cubbies to hide in, and scale stations built directly into the floor so that dogs don’t have to step up onto a shaky scale.

How Fear Free started, and how it spread.

Founded by Dr Marty Becker, DVM, who is best known as “America’s Veterinarian,” the Fear Free movement has been gaining traction for many years. In 2016, Becker and a group of veterinarians and pet experts designed a course of study to “certify” individuals as Fear Free practitioners.

Initially designed for individual veterinarians, technicians, and assistants, the movement has spread and now covers other pet professionals such as groomers, trainers and even dog walkers.

In 2018 the Fear Free movement began offering a certification course for entire veterinary practices. To gain this certification requires that veterinary practices submit to yearly refresher training and have on-site inspections.

It is not just a one-time application.

For clinics to maintain the Fear Free certification requires regular staff training, inspections and more. Many clinics have a couple of staff members trained in Fear Free techniques, but having the clinic itself certified as Fear Free is an accomplishment! It means that the clinic is taking the Fear Free message to heart and incorporating it into as many areas as possible.

While the certification process is rather new, the tools used by the Fear Free movement have been quietly passed along at conferences for many years. What has really brought the movement to prominence is the many individual veterinarians and technical staff that have taken such courses and then brought them back to their practices!

Fear Free techniques work. They reduce your pets stress and make going to the vet a positive experience.

Should you go Fear Free?

Yes, you should support a veterinary clinic that uses as many Fear Free techniques as possible. Support clinics that are certified Fear Free. Even if your pets have no fear of going to your vet, they will still benefit from the low stress handling techniques and positive reinforcement you get at a Fear Free vet clinic. What puppy doesn’t enjoy some peanut butter while getting a vaccine?

I also think it is good to get away from the routine business of using brute force on our pets. I would rather work with a vet who stops an appointment in its tracks when a pet is scared than one who continues to force things on a terrified pet.

As owners, we can demand better for our pets.

One reason brute force has lasted so long in veterinary medicine is because it has been traditionally viewed as normal. It was normal to have to have four people hold down a panicking golden retriever for a blood draw. It was normal to have someone scruff a cat for a nail trim. What was strange was vets asking owners if they could use sedation!

Owners have a lot of impact on the kind of treatment their pet gets. An owner who refuses to sedate or reschedule an appointment when it is clear that a pet is not going to cooperate is merely reinforcing the bad-old-days of brute force veterinary medicine.

You can change this, starting now!

Ask your vet if they use Fear Free techniques in their clinic! Find out if your vet is certified, or if other members of their staff are certified. If it is a priority to you, then it will be important to your vet clinic. You pay the vet bills, afterall.

Certified veterinary clinics may cost a little more, depending on your area. But I have found in my very oversaturated market here in Portland, Oregon, that many clinics use the Fear Free techniques, and that the cost is usually not excessive. Even some of the low-cost clinics are getting into the game. If you insist on this kind of experience for your pet, you will be making an important statement on the kind of veterinary medicine you support. Feel the power, pet parent!

How to find a Fear Free Veterinary Clinic

You can go here and search for a list of certified Fear Free professionals in your area. Some clinics are still in the process of being certified. They may have staff that are certified, though. Call you clinic and ask them if they are certified or if they use the Fear Free techniques!

Questions to ask when looking for a Fear Free Vet clinic:

  • Is the clinic itself certified? How many staff members have individual certification?
  • What techniques of Fear Free does the clinic employ?
  • Do they have separate or divided waiting areas for cats and dogs?
  • Are the exam rooms designated for dogs or cats only? Or are rooms used for both?
  • Does the clinic use pheromone products? Which products?
  • Does the clinic provide pre-exam sedation?
  • What can you do, at home, to make the veterinary experience easier on your pet?

Introducing a New Pet- Part 3: Multi pet, Multi-species

Multi-species harmony

This is the final part of the three part series “Introducing a New Pet to the Household.” You can find Part 1: New Dogs here and Part 2: New Cats here.

Do you love the multi-pet, multi-species lifestyle?

Me too! There is nothing that makes me feel as happy as hanging out with a pile of animals on my lap (and chest, and head etc). I love having a cat purr in my ear while I toss a ball for one of my dogs. I am just crazy that way.

One downside of having a multi-species household, though, is that it can make new pet introductions a bit more challenging. The slight tendency towards chaos that is the multi-species house is exactly the opposite of what you usually want for introducing a new pet.

These multi-species introductions are a bit different than the same species introductions.

They are more fluid. I find it works best to observe and let the introductions flow as each animal gets comfortable with the new one’s presence.

It is more about recognizing how each pet is handling the change, and then actively stepping in to smooth over problems. I think the key is knowing when a pet has had enough and needs some space, and helping them get that before they become too stressed. You want to avoid fights, preferably before they happen.

Here are a few tips to help you integrate your new pet into your multi-species lifestyle!

Pick the right new pet, if you can.

You don’t always have a choice in which homeless pet tugs at your heartstrings. Ideally, you will choose a pet that will fit with the rest of your Tribe. You can’t always tell what a pet is really like, though, when they are under the stress of being in a rescue or adoption facility.

When I adopted Crazy Bug from the humane society, she seemed like a calm, relaxed and well behaved little thing. Until we got into my car, when she became a frantic, trembling, nervous ball of energy. The first 24-48 hours of her introduction I was not sure if I would be able to keep her.

Bug was an escape artist who bolted away the second she had a chance. She could climb fences, go under them and even through them. She had no inside manners at all, and would launch herself up to your plate of food. If the other pets wanted any attention from us, she would push and knock them out of the way.

When she didn’t get her way, she would hump one of the other pets…and she could not be safely crated, as she panicked and broke out the first time I tried.

Still, with firm ground rules, persistence and training everything worked out for us.

I can’t imagine the Tribe without her. It took 6 months, but she is safely crate trained and most of her shenanigans are under control.

In choosing a new pet for your multi-species household, it is good to consider the personality, age and health issues of your current pets. Try and choose a new pet that fits into the group you have.

If you have a very dominant dog, be careful of picking another dog (especially of the same gender) that is also showing strong dominant traits.

If your cats are all seniors (especially if they have health issues), an eight-week-old kitten that is a firecracker might not work out so well. You may have better success with an older kitten or adult cat with a more placid temperament.

It just depends. There are no hard-and-fast rules with this kind of match-up.

Start with the same species introductions.

Following my tips in part 1 & 2 of this series, introduce your new pet to the household and help them settle in. Focus on same-species introductions. Obviously, your new pet will hear/smell/see the other pets in the household as well. However, don’t force these cross-species introductions.

Once the new pet is introduced to the members of the same species, you can start the rest of the introductions. I usually start these with a baby gate in between the groups, or use a leash. Make sure the new pet can retreat from the situation if it becomes too much!

Using pheromone products, like Adaptil and Feliway, on all the dogs and cats in the household is a great idea. Pheromone collars and diffusers generally last 30 days, which should get you through the most stressful period.

Household set-up can make things easier. Here is how I manage my house.

My house is set up with the multi-pet, multi-species mindset. There are areas where the dogs are not allowed to go, so that cats can have their downtime. I use baby gates to manage different areas as needed.

All of my dogs are crate trained, and since the crates are located in our living room, my dogs often choose to retreat to them when they are not feeling social. I try and minimize the stress of having so many animals in one house. I also make sure each pet gets plenty of one-on-one time.

To reduce stress over food, and to ensure that everyone is getting their portion, I feed my dogs in their crates.

The cats are fed in three different areas (no free feeding in my house- we do meal times), and you might be amazed at how quickly cats will learn which area is their dinner table!

Your pet’s should never have to compete with each other for your attention. If you, like me, have one that is especially attention-hogging, you will have to manage it and teach them that the behavior is not acceptable.

Crazy Bug knows I will ignore her if she is being too pushy, for instance. If she tries to force herself onto my lap she promptly ends up on the floor. Lap time is at my discretion, not hers.

I have one very shy cat that just can’t handle the dogs as a group. VJ enjoys the dogs one-on-one, but is too intimidated by their pack behavior to join us in the living room. He prefers to hang out on the other side of the baby gate.

So I make sure he gets plenty of attention, and that there are times when the dogs are in the house one-at-a-time, so he can say hi.

Final thoughts.

You don’t have to live in a house of crates, boxes and baby gates to have multiple pets of different species (it just makes it easier). Your pets will adjust to their environment. Each Tribe does things a little differently, and there is no one formula that is guaranteed to succeed.

Have patience, give everyone some personal space, and try and intercede before things go terribly wrong…that would be my best advice for anyone living the multi-species lifestyle.

How do you manage your multi-pet, multi-species household? Do you have any good tricks or tips for making it work? Comment here or on our Facebook page and we can chat about it!

Introducing a New Pet to your Tribe- Part 2: New Cat

New cat

Introducing a new cat or kitten into a household with cats

Welcome back to the series “Introducing a New Pet to your Tribe.” You can read Part 1: Dogs here.

In this part of the series, I’m going to give you some tips on introducing a new cat or kitten to the household.

This is a stressful time for all the felines involved. An inept or badly done introduction can set up a situation where the cats never do get along. Sometimes things are so bad that one of the cats needs to be rehomed.

Let’s avoid that, ok? There are a lot of things you can do to prevent this outcome!

It is much harder to get an adult cat that has never lived with another cat to accept a new cat into the tribe. Your cat’s prior experiences with other cats will have a big influence on whether they will accept a new cat or not. Even if your cat has never lived with another cat before, you can have a successful outcome if you take things slowly.

While we tend to think of cats as being solitary creatures, in truth domestic cats are social.

Feral cats will often live in social groups, called colonies. These are usually groups of related females and their offspring but sometimes include non-related members. Unlike dogs, however, cats do not develop a social hierarchy. There is no “leader” in a cat colony.

This makes it a bit trickier to introduce a new cat to the household. Our dogs naturally (reinforced by training) look to us as the leaders of the pack. This is very helpful when we are bringing in new members to the family.

Cats, on the other hand, tend to resent another cat’s intrusion into their territory. They do not specifically look to the humans in the house as leaders (I wish!). This means we can’t use our position in the hierarchy to smooth things over for them.

Cats also do not like change and adapt slowly to changes. While a new dog will usually settle in a a few weeks, it can take cats a month or months to settle in and adjust to a major change.

I strongly recommend using a product like Feliway for cat introductions. If you have a large house, you may need several diffusers to cover the areas that the cats spend the most time in. Feliway has pheromone collars, if that works better for your situation. There is a specific Feliway diffuser for multi-cat households. You can find a link to it here.

You could also use Zylkene on all the cats in the household during this introduction period.

The first day or so: Phase 1

On the day you bring your new cat home, you will want to set them up in an isolated area of your house. I recommend a bathroom, as that is an easy area to keep clean if there are any accidents. Also, using a bathroom will prevent the new cat from hiding in places you can’t get to. You can certainly use a bedroom, but try and prevent them from having access to closets or under the bed.

Your new cat will spend the first few days in this room, with the door closed.

Set the room up with a fresh litter box, water, food and a box or crate for them to hide in. Feel free to spend as much time in the room with the new cat as you can. If they are scared or hiding, let them. Don’t force affection on them but certainly pet them if they are receptive. Make sure they are eating and eliminating properly.

It probably won’t take your cat long to discover that something is going on in the bathroom.

Most likely they will be sniffing outside the door. They may look upset.

It is typical for their fur to stand up, for them to be pacing stiffly in front of the door and/or arching their back. They may meow and/or growl. Your cat might start attacking the door or slip their paws under the door.

Let them do this. Obviously don’t let them be destructive, but all that pacing and sniffing is good. This is going to take some time. Try to keep the door between the cats. It does not help much at this phase to let the cats see each other. They both know another cat is in the other side of the door.

If the new cat is a kitten, they will probably adjust quickly.

Kittens are usually not as territorial as adult cats and deal with change faster as well. If the new one is an adult cat it may take a bit longer before they feel safe enough to enjoy being petted and are ready to explore their surroundings.

Keep the new cat strictly isolated for about 24 hours. By then you should have an idea of how they are settling in and how your other cat or cats are adjusting to the change.

Once the new cat is able to relax and explore the room and doesn’t seem worried (or even better is excited and happy) when you come into the room, you can move on to the next phase. 1 to 3 days seems to be the average for this first period. Let the cats behavior be your guide. If either the new or existing member of the cat family still seems really stressed, give it another day or so before you move on.

Meeting face-to-face: Phase 2

The next step is to let the cats see each other and have some limited interactions.

For this phase, I use a baby gate so that the cats can see and smell each other, but can’t scratch or bite. The way I do it is to set up the gate at the bathroom door, open the door a bit and then I sit in the bathroom in front of the gate. This way I can intervene if there is a problem, or close the door quickly if I need to.

If you don’t have a baby gate and can’t buy or borrow one, you can also use a piece of cardboard with some small holes cut in it.

You want them to be able to see each other but also have them see there is something separating them.

The first time I do this, I usually only leave the door open for a few minutes. It really depends on their reactions. If either cat get really upset I stop and let them have a few hours of relaxation before trying again.

Do this several times, each time leaving the door open a bit longer. It is common for cats to hiss at each other during this phase. Hopefully each time you do this, the cats will react less negatively to each other.

For me, Phase 2 usually lasts about 24 hours, with at least 5 baby-gated introductions.

Take as long as is needed. You are waiting until the cats are relaxed enough when they see each other that they do not try to strike out or fight. It’s fine if they are still hissing and even growling a bit. If either cat is arching its back or trying to fight then take more time and repeat this phase.

Remove the baby gate: Phase 3

The next step is to let the cats meet up without the baby gate or barrier in the way. Keep it handy the first few times, though, in case you need it. As in phase 2, I usually sit in the bathroom doorway between the cats and let them meet. If they are receptive, I will pet them both at the same time.

Depending on how this introduction goes, I may let the new cat start exploring the rest of the house at this point.

If either cat still seems very upset, or if they are lashing out at each other I will take more time. Do this moderated introduction as many times as needed until things are working.

Leave the litter box and food and water dishes in the bathroom for now, even if the new cat is exploring the house.

Gradually move the litter box and food dishes to the place you want them to be.

If you free feed your cats, you will need to keep an eye on things and make sure all the cats are getting a chance to eat. Most of the time, a stressed cat will not eat, so it may take a while before the cats will share a bowl of food. Cats do not always like to share a litter box either.

The rule of thumb for litter boxes is to have 1 litter box per cat, plus one.

So, for a three cat household you should ideally have 4 litter boxes! This doesn’t work for everyone, but I do recommend a minimum of two litter boxes in a multi-cat household, preferably located in different places. Obviously you want to keep the litter boxes clean and scoop them frequently.

Especially in the first few weeks, you want all the cats to feel safe when they are using the litter box. Otherwise they might not use it as they should. Having the litter boxes in different areas make it more likely that one cat will not intimidate or bully the other when they are trying to go to the bathroom.

Adding a new cat to an existing cat household can be tricky. I hope that by using this gradual, phased introduction you will get things off to a positive start!

Introducing a new pet to your Tribe- Part 1: New Dog

New dog

It is almost summer, and this is a popular time for people to introduce new pets into the household. The next couple of posts will help you ease your new member into the family, and hopefully set you up for a happy pet tribe! We will start with introducing a new dog to the family, and then in my next post I will focus on cat introductions.

Introducing a new dog or puppy to a household with other dogs

It is so exciting, bringing home a new puppy or dog! If you already have a dog or two (or more), here is some advice on how to introduce the new one to the family. There are a lot of ways this can play out, but I will pass on a few tips that have worked well for me and my Tribe.

Depending on the situation, you may have already introduced the new dog to the group before you adopted them. You might skip this step, though, if you are getting a puppy and know your current ones are fine with other dogs.

Pre-adoption dog meetings can be helpful if there are any questions about how the dogs might get along, but they are not always needed. I have introduced plenty of dogs into my household without any advanced meetings.

I like to start the greeting process off my property, if possible.

It is easier for dogs to get to know one another when your current pack doesn’t feel like they need to protect their property. You can even start on the sidewalk in front of your house. If that doesn’t work, then start in a yard or outside the house itself.

It is best if all dogs are initially on a leash. It is also easiest to introduce the dogs one at a time. If you have more than one dog in the household and you don’t have an extra person around to hold the other leash, then keep the new one on a leash and do the introductions in a fenced yard.

Greeting- Phase 1

Stand back, hold the leash(es) loose and let the two dogs sniff. Watch their reactions. Look at the body language of each dog. Give them plenty of time. Talk to them, and once they are done with the initial sniff, pet the new one to show your dog that you approve.

Watch for warning signs. A dog that is threatened by this situation will be stiff, holding their ears and tail upright. Their eyes will be wide open (wall-eyed), and they may lift their lip or growl. The fur on their neck and back might also stand up. If you see these signs, back the dogs and give them a few minutes apart. Try again.

If you have a person working with each dog, then you can use treats to reward each dogs appropriate behavior. If you are doing this introduction by yourself, though, I would avoid using food rewards until you are confident that neither dog will be aggressive over the treats.

Once both dogs loosen up and start to show signs they want to play, then go ahead and move to a fenced area (if you are not already in one) and unclip the leash(es).

Let them have fun for a few minutes.

You will know that things are going well when both dog’s muscles are loose, with their ears and tail hanging normally. Once they start to play bow (doing the downward dog yoga pose) at each other then you are golden.

If you only have a single dog to introduce, then it is time to move inside and start the second part of the greeting phase.

If there are other dogs to introduce to the new dog, then swap out your current dog and bring out the next one.

You want to introduce each dog separately first, and then do the group introduction. It can be very intimidating for a new dog to be greeted by a pack of strange dogs. Your dogs have a developed social hierarchy that they have already established; your new dog will have to work out their place in this pack.

When I worked in a doggy daycare, I called this kind of introduction the “Circle of Noses.”

Even very socialized dogs can react badly to being sniffed by a bunch of other dogs all at once! Dogs in a pack can also act differently to situations than they would alone. That is why I recommend doing the initial introductions individually, to avoid pack-behavior problems.

Once each of your dogs have been introduced to the new dog individually, and everything is going well, you can do the group introduction. Stay in the fenced area and add a dog to the mix. Let the new group sniff and play for awhile. Then bring out another dog and let them mingle. Soon, all the dogs should be playing in the yard together!

Greetings-Phase 2

When everyone is introduced and getting along in the yard, it is time to head indoors. Bring the new dog into the house, on a leash, while leaving the others in the yard. Let the new dog explore and sniff around. Give praise and treats!

Then bring in a dog from the yard and do another sniff-and-greet meeting inside. Just like the outside greetings, do these one at a time. Once everyone has been greeted indoors individually, you can start adding the outside group into the mix.

Soon everyone will be relaxing and hanging out together!

Early days tips

It might take your new dog several weeks to really relax and find their place in the pack. You want to keep an eye on toys, food and other things that might cause friction between the dogs.

Try and follow a set routine for a few days or weeks, if you can, so the new dog learns how the family works. Dogs tend to do best when they have a predictable routine, and it makes it much easier for a new dog to settle in.

You might want to use a pheromone product like Adaptil (either the collars or a plug in) for the first month, to ease the situation.

I very much recommend using pheromone products for the introduction period. They are not that expensive and I find that they can help a great deal in reducing stress. I prefer using the Adaptil collars over using the plug in, so that the collars’ effect follows the dog. A plug in has a much more limited area of effect.

Start training the new dog right away.

If you don’t let dogs on the couch, start teaching this to the new dog from day 1. If you use kennels, then begin kennel training. I find it works well to feed all of my dogs in their kennels. This reduces their stress and prevents any fights from breaking out. And it teaches your dogs that good things happen in their kennel!

I always find the first week after introducing a new dog to my Tribe is chaotic and stressful for me! Things settle down fast after that, so don’t worry too much.

If you are running into serious problems with fights, aggression or other problematic behavior, then you may need additional help. If you adopted your new dog from a rescue or humane society, give them a call and see what kind of assistance they can offer. You can also talk to your vet or a behaviorist in your area.

I hope these tips help you with introducing your new family member! Let me know if you have any other questions, and I will do my best to help.

For more tips and information on reading dog body language, click here.

Bad Pet Parent: We all have our fails

Bad pet parent

Perfecting the art of being a bad pet parent

Are your pets past due for their annual exams and vaccines? Have you forgotten to give them their flea/tick/heartworm prevention…for a few months, or years? Is your pet overweight, maybe from all those extra treats and table scraps you don’t want to admit you give them? Do you sometimes feel like a bad pet parent?

Most of us feel like bad pet parents, at least some of the time.

We ignore recommendations made by our vets, or put them aside until the timing is better. Even folks who work in veterinary medicine often, even frequently, don’t do all of the things we are told to do by the vet.

I have never met a single person who brushes their pets teeth, every day, as directed. Every few days, maybe. A few times a month, more likely. A few times a year, likely. Never, the majority of us (author raises hand! 4 dogs and 3 cats-I would never have time to brush my own teeth if I did all of them, everyday).

Life gets busy.

There are things outside of being a pet parent that take our time and energy (like being a parent of one or more human children!). This is one key way having human kids differs from furkids: we can ignore the non-essential needs of our pets, at times at least.

This isn’t to say that it is ok to put your pet’s medical care aside so that you can have a bigger Hawaiian vacation. Buying a new car should not mean that you delay spaying your outdoor cat for a few more months. We have to make our pets priorities in our lives, and that includes budgeting in their medical needs.

Keep some perspective, though. Even great people have moments when they are bad pet parents.

I had one fail recently that I’m still bothered by.

My poor old pup Ajax got knocked down the stairs (concrete stairs, of course). It was my fault. I was taking the dog Tribe out for an evening visit to the yard. I was having problems getting all 4 of them headed towards the door at the same time. Ajax (who is suffering from some senior dementia) was confused and kept wandering back into the living room.

I should have just picked her up, right? I was annoyed that this was taking so long, and I was hungry and wanted to finish eating, so I hustled all of them out. In the chaos, the golden Deuce ran right over Ajax and sent her tumbling. I tried to stop her fall but couldn’t get there in time. She went head-over-tail all the way down the stairs. Luckily she landed on the bag of chicken feed and wasn’t injured.

Fail. I knew better. See, we all have our moments…

You should not get too down on yourself if you are a bit past time on getting Fluffy in for her annual exam. It’s ok if you have to take the kids to soccer practice instead of taking Fluffy to the dog park.

Do you best, that is all I can advise.

Don’t beat yourself up for your fails! We all have them; even the vet advising you on the things you should be doing is probably not doing all of those things them self.

Obviously, keep your pets safe and make sure their basic needs are met. But it is OK if you sometimes have to be a bad pet parent, and put aside non-essentials when it comes to your pet’s care. Just don’t put them on the back burner for too long.

It is ok to fail your pet now and again, and to be a bad pet parent. Yes, we should all try and do better. But today, I give you permission (if you need it) to be a “bad” pet parent. It’s ok. I’m a “bad” one myself sometimes.

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