Explore Life with Pets
Cat Carrier Catastrophe: Tips For Crating Your Cat
If you are a cat owner, it probably won’t surprise you to hear that most cats do not get their yearly vet check-ups. In surveys, half of all cat owners admit that they are overdue for their annual exams. This trend gets even worse for older cats. As a former veterinary assistant, I can’t tell you how many cats we never saw until there was something wrong with them. There are many reasons for this trend, including the perception that cats don’t require as much care as dogs. But another, less discussed reason is the challenge owners often face just getting their cat in the carrier. Facing the cat carrier problem is enough to make many owners think “not this week!”
It does not have to be this hard! With a little planning and even training, you can get your cat in the carrier safely. Don’t let carrier dread keep your cat from seeing the vet!
Pick the Right Carrier
Ditch the cardboard carrier. They work for a short trip, but I have seen plenty of cats claw their way out of them on the way to the vet. It doesn’t take a determined cat very long to do this, either. Plus, if a distressed cat urinates in one you will not want to bring it back home with you.
So what kind of carrier should you get? For a cat that is a bit difficult, I recommend a hard bodied kennel with a metal door. Bonus points if it has a top loading door as well. It should be easy to take apart (no rusted screws/nuts, no zip ties and no duct tape!) and secure. Avoid the soft-sided carriers or carriers with the cheap plastic doors if your cat is a challenge. These will just increase your frustration.
Make sure your carrier is the right size for your cat. Trying to squish a 15 pound feline into a small carrier is just adding to your problems. Your cat should be able to stand, turn around and move within the carrier. This means you might have to go through a few different carriers over the lifetime of your cat.
Crate Train Your Kitten/Cat
We crate train dogs, so why not cats? I’ve never understood why we are surprised that our cats rebel against the carrier when their only experience with crates is to be stuffed into them once a year and driven to the vet where they get all kinds of scary things done to them.
Instead, start by making the carrier part of their every day experience. Take the door off so your cat can come and go. Place it in an area where your cat spends a lot of time. Make it comfortable. Put a piece of carpet, a cat bed or even an old blanket in the carrier. Toss in toys, treats, and even start feeding your cat IN the carrier. Within a few weeks the carrier will be no big deal to your cat. This doesn’t mean that going to the vet won’t be stressful for your cat. But at least they won’t automatically run the second they see the carrier come out.
If your cat still refuses to go near the crate after a few weeks of training, then you might need a different carrier. I know that my worst cat will not go in a small carrier no matter the inducement. A medium dog kennel is the smallest size he will willingly enter.
Getting a Difficult Cat in a Carrier
Even with crate training, some cats are just more difficult than others. Ideally, once your cat is use to the carrier being around you should be able to lure them in with a toy or treat, and then slip the door closed. Minimal drama, right?
There will always be those who defy this expectation! I have one of them in my house. He has a 6th sense about these things, and seems to know the difference between an innocent treat being tossed in the carrier and the lure-treat of a pending vet visit. If you have tried a few months of crate training and are still having difficulties then there are a few more things you can do to get your cat in the carrier safely.
Top-Drop Method
It is easier to drop a cat into a crate from above than it is to try and shove them in the front door. I’ve noticed how cats seem to be able to grow extra limbs when you are trying to wrestle them into a front-loading crate. This is why I highly recommend carriers with top and front loading doors!
Even if you don’t have a top loading crate, you can still try the top-drop method with a regular carrier (not literally drop, of course). This may require two people, depending on your crate.
Stand the crate on its end, with the door opening at the top. Have someone hold it in this position if needed. Take your cat and hold them above the opening and slowly lower their back legs into the carrier. Keep dropping them down until they are standing on what is the back of the crate (which is on the floor). Quickly close the door. Slowly rotate the carrier to its normal upright position. Done!
Pillow-Case or Burrito Wrap Method
The top-drop method on its own may not be enough for an especially difficult kitty. The next step is to get an old pillow case. Place your cat in the pillow case. Holding the pillow case closed with one hand, carefully lower your cat into the crate. Leave them in the pillow case. Once they are in the crate, shut the door. The pillow case keeps their limbs confined and stops them from grabbing a hold of the crate and escaping.
You can do something similar with a towel by wrapping them up like a burrito, with just their head sticking out. As long as the limbs are contained (and they don’t bite you) this should work. I think the pillow case is easier, myself.
Still Having Problems?
If all of these methods still leave you with a deep dread of having to crate your cat, then there are a few more things you can try.
- Feliway and other pheromone-based products can reduce stress in many cats.
- Some vets will give you a prescription for a sedative you can give before the vet visit. For some cats this might be what they need to not be so terrified.
- You might have more success with using a mobile vet who can come to your house, rather than taking your cat into a clinic.
Using these tips, you can reduce or eliminate your cat carrier problems and make sure that your cat gets the vet care they need to live long and healthy lives.
I would not call this crating so your title threw me completely (sorry).
Th e one thing that works for me is total and utter surprise. The carrier is ready, the cat is grabbed and in before they wake up. It is the only way I get them in *eyeroll* so your tips will provide worried cat parents with a LOT of help!
These are some useful ideas and tips. I love the idea of making a carrier a part of their everyday experience. Thankfully, I didn’t have crating issues for now and hopefully, I will not have in the future 🙂
You reminded me of what a nightmare it was to take my cats to the vet, one in particular. She was a feral kitten and even though she was happy in our home, getting her into a crate was hell and that was putting it mildly. For the others my preferred method was standing the crate on its end and just dropping them in. They never liked it but once they were in they were quiet. Training them to like the crate, or at least tolerate it, is a great idea.
Great tips and suggestions for cat owners, as it seems that getting cats into carriers can be problematic! I think with anything regarding our pets, it takes time and patience rather than leaving it to the day that you desperately need to transport them, getting them used to it over time, helps your and your cat’s stress!
Our Tribe of Five all have different reactions to the carrier. Tucker and Jasmine hunker down and accept this as their fate. My brother Oliver and I are always curious and don’t mind sauntering in the carrier to await the next adventure. Lily, on the other hand, grows two extra legs and her body turns to rubber so The Female Human has discovered that the “top drop” method is the only way to go!
Purrs & Head Bonks,
I love the Tribe of Five name! Goes well with My Wicked Tribe, lol. Yes, of the three felines in the house I get three different reactions to being placed in a kennel. The Worst Cat in the World does his usual screaming. The semi-feral just freezes and waits for release. And the senior calico would prefer to ride in my lap and avoid the kennel, but will tolerate it so long as I keep petting her.
I’ve helped people put their cats in carriers for transport and have always had a lot of trouble with that cat not wanting to go. Thanks for these awesome tips!
> cats rebel against the carrier when their only experience with crates is to be stuffed into them
That actually makes a ton on sense. I can see that you’d need to teach your cat that the carrier or crate is actually a safe place.
Great post! I don’t have a cat myself but we had one growing up as a kid, and I remember how much she hated going to the vets. It’s become so normal to crate train dogs but I don’t think most people even think about doing it with cats. Makes a lot of sense!
Some good tips here. I have three soft sided carriers out all the time, and Karma uses them to sleep or get treats. I often put puzzle toys inside, so he’s used to being fed there as well.
Great tips, I remember during the Gulf War battling to get my cats into the carriers to get them to the safe room, it was a nightmare so in the end we slept in the safe room at nights to prevent any more trauma.
Great advice. Nothing more difficult than crating a reluctant cat.
I was really surprised that so many people don’t take their cats in for their annual vet visit. We used to turn our carrier on end and put our cat in from the top and it worked so much better than the front loading method. I know that some people have super cute carriers that the cats use as beds all the time. That seems like an ideal way to minimize the stress.
Fortunately, the cats I have now I can get into carriers – the top down way. (I’ll try the pillow case with the most difficult). My previous cat hated carriers so much she’d fight to get out of them until her nose bled. You’re not going to like this … but I had to take her lose in the car. She was much better that way.
That’s a good point that we need to remember that cats most likely freak out in their carriers because they have not had any formal crate training like dogs do. I also like the tip to use a more sturdy carrier compared to the simple cardboard carriers. Useful tips!
Cats can be really a handful. Thanks for this post. Very informative!
We use the top drop method for one of our cats who is a bit carrier shy. Our other cat just goes right in without a problem.
Luckily I have two pretty easy cats. Even if I upset them they do not bite or scratch me. I well definitely be taking my cats in for yearly visits to the vet, even if they weren’t so sweet.
Such great tips! We had a feral that I needed to take to the vet and top-drop is what (finally, after a zillion tries) worked! Oh, wish I had your post back then! Pinning over on my Mews News board to share!
I’m so glad you find it helpful! These are the tips that we give out to clients in exam rooms. No idea why they are so hard to find on the internet. One reason I created this site, so we can share all of our collective knowledge and experience!
great tips – I swear by the top drop method. But just leaving the carriers out works for most of mine, at least the ones that go out regularly. I have a little row of carriers in my room – it is like a little row of cat apartments most of the time.
These are great tips, I wish I had known about them years ago! When I had cats I had a lot of trouble and two cat-tastrophes in the process. Thanks for sharing this!
Love & Biscuits,
Dogs Luv Us and We Luv Them
It totally makes sense to have cats acclimated to crates/carriers too! I hope more people train this. I have a friend whose cat hates carriers and I’ve suggested a mobile vet to her before.
I keep our carriers out in the living room all the time. We have the Sleepypod®️ Mobile Pet Beds and they are wonderful. Our vets love them because they can get the girls in and out easier. They can also be completely unzipped and the bottom can be used as a bed if the girls need to stay overnight.
This is AWESOME! I’ve never seen anyone talking about training their cat to accept a carrier so I’m thrilled YOU are talking about this! I personally find the top-loading door to work the best!
I can imagine how it could be hard with some kitties. Jasmine (a dog) was fine getting in the crate when we tried, unless the door got closed. She DID NOT like that. Not much point to crating in a open crate LOL
I have a cat but these tips sound really important for all cat owners! Crating isn’t always easy but it’s important!
I have never owned a cat, so I am unfamiliar with getting one in a crate. You had plenty of good ideas. It would seem that getting them used to a crate as a kitten would be the best plan.
My sister has an extremely unruly cat and she used that top drop method to get her cat to the vet last time. It worked. No running around the house to try to get her. Also the mobile vet idea is a great option too.
Our cat has always slept in a large cage at night and he goes into the tiny travel kennel without any problem. I’ve always figured that if you feed them in their crates or cages, they think of them as a nice place.